Polyurethane-35 | Cosmetic Grade Aqueous Dispersion
Product Name: Polyurethane-35
INCI Name: POLYURETHANE-35
Appearance: White to pale yellowish opaque liquid
Odor: Mild, characteristic, nearly odorless
Solid Content: 41.0% ± 2.0%
Viscosity (23°C, Brookfield): ≤500 mPa·s
pH Value (as is): 7.5 ± 1.0
Density (23°C): ~1.05 g/cm³
Storage Conditions: Cool, dry place 5-30°C, sealed containers, protect from freezing and direct sunlight
Shelf Life: 24 months
Polyurethane-35, PU-35, film former, waterproof mascara, long wear foundation, SPF booster, sunscreen film former, cosmetic polyurethane, transfer proof makeup
Polyurethane-35 | Cosmetic Grade Aqueous Dispersion
Polyurethane-35 is a high-performance aliphatic waterborne polyurethane dispersion specifically engineered for cosmetic and personal care applications. As a next-generation film-forming agent, it represents a significant upgrade over traditional acrylic and PVP-based fixatives, offering an unbeatable combination of water resistance, flexibility, and skin comfort.
What sets Polyurethane-35 apart is its unique nano-particle structure that forms an invisible, breathable, elastic film on skin and hair. This film provides exceptional long-wear performance, water and sweat resistance, and transfer-proof properties without the stiff, tacky, or mask-like feel of older film formers. Widely recognized as the gold standard film former for premium waterproof mascaras, long-wear foundations, and high-SPF sunscreens, Polyurethane-35 also acts as a natural SPF booster that can increase UV protection by 50-100% simply by improving film uniformity.
Key Benefits
✅ Premium waterproof & sweat-resistant film former✅ Transfer-proof / non-transfer long-wear performance
✅ Flexible, elastic film - no stiff or mask-like feel
✅ Natural SPF booster - increases SPF by 50-100%
✅ Improves UV filter uniformity and water resistance
✅ Excellent adhesion to skin, hair, and pigments
✅ Breathable film - doesn't clog pores
✅ Non-tacky, dry silky touch after film formation
✅ Clear / transparent film - no whitening or casting
✅ Low viscosity liquid - easy to incorporate
✅ Cold processable - no heating required
✅ Compatible with most cosmetic ingredients
✅ Good pigment binding ability for makeup
✅ Freeze-thaw stable formulation
✅ Low irritation - suitable for sensitive skin
Applications
Makeup & Color Cosmetics (40% of usage):
• Waterproof Mascara: 3.0-8.0% - curl hold, waterproof, no flaking
• Long-Wear Eyeliner: 3.0-7.0% - transfer-proof, smudge-resistant
• Liquid Foundation: 2.0-5.0% - long wear, transfer-resistant, natural finish
• BB / CC Cream: 2.0-4.0% - improved staying power, dewy finish
• Liquid Lipstick / Lip Gloss: 3.0-6.0% - long-lasting, non-transfer
• Eyeshadow Primer: 3.0-6.0% - crease-proof, extends eyeshadow wear
• Setting Spray: 2.0-5.0% - locks makeup, all-day wear
• Tinted Moisturizer: 1.5-3.0% - lightweight, natural skin feel
Sunscreen & UV Care (30%):
• Waterproof Sunscreen Lotion: 2.0-5.0% - water resistance, SPF booster
• Spray Sunscreen: 1.5-4.0% - even film, improved SPF uniformity
• Sport Sunscreen: 3.0-6.0% - sweat-proof, rub-resistant
• Daily Moisturizer SPF: 1.0-3.0% - boosts SPF, elegant feel
• After-Sun Products: 1.0-2.0% - film barrier, moisture lock
SPF Boost Effect: 2% Polyurethane-35 can increase measured SPF from 15 to 30 (doubles!)
Hair Styling (15%):
• Hair Styling Gel: 3.0-8.0% - flexible hold, non-flaking
• Hair Mousse: 2.0-5.0% - volume, bounce, touchable hold
• Hairspray: 2.0-6.0% - humidity resistance, natural movement
• Curl Defining Cream: 2.0-5.0% - curl memory, frizz control
• Hair Serum: 1.0-3.0% - heat protection, shine
Skin Care & Other (15%):
• Peel-Off Masks: 5.0-10.0% - film formation, easy peel-off
• Makeup Primer: 2.0-4.0% - smooths skin, extends makeup wear
• Moisturizing Cream: 1.0-3.0% - moisture barrier, long-lasting hydration
• BB Cushion: 2.0-4.0% - improved payoff, longer wear
• Deodorant: 1.0-3.0% - film formation, long-lasting efficacy
Certificate Of Analysis (COA)
Test Item | Specification | Test Result | Test Method |
Product Identification | |||
Product Name | Polyurethane-35 Dispersion | Polyurethane-35 Cosmetic Grade | —— |
INCI Name | POLYURETHANE-35 | POLYURETHANE-35 | —— |
Grade | Cosmetic Grade, 40% Solids | 41% Active Dispersion | —— |
Physical Properties | |||
Appearance | Milky white liquid | Off-white opaque liquid | Visual |
Odor | Mild characteristic odor | Mild, acceptable | Olfactory |
Chemical Properties | |||
Solid Content | 41.0% ± 2.0% | 41.2% | DIN EN ISO 3251 |
pH Value (as is) | 7.5 ± 1.0 | 7.4 | DIN ISO 976 |
Viscosity (23°C) | ≤500 mPa·s | 320 mPa·s | DIN EN ISO 3219 |
Density (23°C) | 1.03-1.07 g/cm³ | 1.05 g/cm³ | Gravimetric |
Particle Size | 30-80 nm | 52 nm | DLS / Zetasizer |
Film Properties | |||
Tg (Glass Transition) | 25-35°C | 29°C | DSC |
MFFT | 0-5°C | 2°C | ASTM D2354 |
Film Clarity | Clear / transparent | Clear transparent film | Visual |
Water Resistance | Good | Pass - 80% film retained | Immersion test |
Purity & Impurities | |||
Residual Monomer (NCO) | ≤0.1% | <0.05% | Titration |
Heavy Metals (as Pb) | ≤10 ppm | <5 ppm | ICP-MS |
Arsenic (As) | ≤2 ppm | <0.5 ppm | ICP-MS |
Lead (Pb) | ≤2 ppm | <0.3 ppm | ICP-MS |
Microbiological | |||
Total Aerobic Count | ≤100 CFU/g | <10 CFU/g | Plate Count |
Yeast & Mold | ≤10 CFU/g | <5 CFU/g | Plate Count |
E. coli | Negative | Negative | —— |
Salmonella | Negative | Negative | —— |
Pseudomonas aeruginosa | Negative | Negative | —— |
Performance Test | |||
SPF Boost (2% in sunscreen) | ≥50% increase | 72% increase | In vitro SPF |
Final Conclusion | —— | PASSED - EXCEEDS SPECIFICATION | —— |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) & Document Request Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) & Document Request
Q1: What is the recommended dosage of Polyurethane-35 in different product types?
A: Dosage varies by application - use this comprehensive guide:
Product Category | Typical Dosage | What it Does | Key Benefit |
Waterproof Mascara | 3.0 - 8.0% | Film former, pigment binder | Waterproof, no flaking, curl hold |
Long-Wear Foundation | 2.0 - 5.0% | Transfer resistance, film | 12+ hour wear, natural finish |
Waterproof Sunscreen | 2.0 - 5.0% | Water resistance, SPF boost | 80 min water resistant, +50-100% SPF |
Hair Styling Gel | 3.0 - 8.0% | Hold, flexibility | Touchable hold, no flaking |
Peel-Off Mask | 5.0 - 10.0% | Film formation | Clean peel-off, no residue |
Makeup Setting Spray | 2.0 - 5.0% | Makeup lock | All-day wear, no melting |
BB / CC Cream | 2.0 - 4.0% | Extended wear | Natural dewy finish |
Daily Moisturizer | 1.0 - 3.0% | Moisture barrier | Long-lasting hydration |
Q: How do I properly incorporate Polyurethane-35 into my formulation?
A: It's very easy - one of the simplest film formers to use!
Standard Addition Method:
1. Prepare your water phase (heat if needed for other ingredients)
2. Cool down to room temperature or below 40°C
3. Add Polyurethane-35 with gentle stirring
4. Stir for 5-10 minutes until homogeneous
5. Add fragrance and preservatives last
Key Tips:
• ✅ NO HEATING REQUIRED - fully cold processable
• ✅ Add at the end of formulation, after emulsification
• ✅ Gentle stirring is enough - no high shear needed
• ✅ Can be added to both water phase and finished emulsion
Common Mistakes to Avoid:
• ❌ Don't add at high temperature (>80°C) - may affect stability
• ❌ Don't use high shear homogenization - can break the dispersion
• ❌ Don't add directly to high-solvent phases - dilute first
• ❌ Don't freeze and thaw repeatedly - while it survives, performance may decrease
Pro Formulation Hack:
For maximum SPF boost in sunscreens, add Polyurethane-35 AFTER the UV filters are fully dispersed. The film-forming effect creates a more uniform UV filter layer = higher measured SPF.
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