Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20) | Cosmetic Grade
<!--[if !supportLists]-->• <!--[endif]-->Product Name: Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20)
INCI Name: Polysorbate 20
CAS Number: 9005-64-5
EINECS Number: 500-018-3
HS Code: 34021300
E Number (Food Additive): E432
Average Molecular Weight: 1227.54 g/mol
Active Matter Content: ≥98.5%
Appearance (25°C): Yellow to amber clear viscous liquid
Odor: Very mild characteristic odor, practically odorless
Recommended Usage Level: 0.1% - 10% depending on application
Storage Conditions: 15-30°C, protected from light and air, sealed containers
Shelf Life: 24 months
Polysorbate 20, Tween 20, CAS 9005-64-5, HLB 16.7, solubilizer, essential oil solubilizer, O/W emulsifier, nonionic surfactant, E432, clear microemulsion, cosmetic emulsifier
Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20) | Cosmetic Grade-CAS 9005-64-5
Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20) is the most hydrophilic member of the polysorbate surfactant family, produced through ethoxylation of sorbitan monolaurate with 20 moles of ethylene oxide. With an HLB value of 16.7 - the highest in the entire Tween series - it is the industry gold standard solubilizer for essential oils, fragrances, and lipophilic active ingredients in clear aqueous systems.
Unlike Tween 60 and Tween 80 which excel at emulsification, Tween 20's unique strength is its exceptional solubilizing power: it creates thermodynamically stable, crystal-clear microemulsions that remain transparent indefinitely. It is the only polysorbate capable of producing truly water-clear solubilized systems, making it indispensable for perfumes, room sprays, toners, and clear serums. The classic 3:1 Tween + Span ratio is the universal method for precise HLB adjustment in emulsion technology.

Key Benefits
✅ Highest HLB 16.7 in Tween series - most hydrophilic grade
✅ Industry gold standard essential oil solubilizer
✅ Creates CRYSTAL CLEAR microemulsions - no cloudiness
✅ Exceptional solubilizing power for fragrances
✅ Stable across full pH range 2.0-12.0
✅ Fully compatible with all cosmetic ingredients
✅ Biotech grade for cell culture and buffers
✅ Excellent hard water tolerance
✅ Non-ionic - no charge interaction issues
✅ Low irritation - dermatologically tested safe
✅ Cold processable - no heating required
✅ Freeze-thaw stable emulsions
Applications
Cosmetics & Personal Care (60% of consumption):
• Perfumes & Body Mists: 0.5-2% - solubilize fragrance oils
• Facial Toners & Mists: 0.1-0.5% - clear active solubilization
• Clear Serums & Gels: 0.5-2% - lipophilic active solubilizer
• Room Sprays & Air Fresheners: 1-3% - essential oil solubilizer
• Shampoos & Body Washes: 0.5-1% - foam booster & mildness
• Creams & Lotions: 1-5% - O/W co-emulsifier
Food & Beverage Industry:
• Bakery Products: 0.1-0.5% - dough conditioner, crumb softener
• Ice Cream & Desserts: 0.05-0.2% - fat dispersion, texture
• Beverage Emulsions: 0.05-0.3% - flavor oil emulsification
• Confectionery: 0.1-0.5% - fat bloom prevention
Certificate Of Analysis (COA)
Test Item | Specification | Test Result | Test Method |
Product Identification | |||
Product Name | Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20) | Tween 20 Standard Grade | —— |
CAS Number | 9005-64-5 | 9005-64-5 | —— |
Physical Properties | |||
Appearance | Yellow to amber clear liquid | Light yellow clear liquid | Visual |
Odor | Mild characteristic | Practically odorless | Olfactory |
Active Matter | ≥98.5% | 99.2% | —— |
Density (25°C) | 1.09-1.11 g/cm³ | 1.10 g/cm³ | Pycnometer |
Viscosity (25°C) | 300-500 mPa·s | 385 mPa·s | Brookfield |
pH Value (5% Solution) | 5.0 - 7.5 | 6.2 | pH Meter |
Refractive Index | 1.468-1.472 | 1.4695 | Refractometer |
HLB Value (calc.) | ~16.7 | 16.7 | Calculated |
Chemical Specifications | |||
Saponification Value | 40 - 50 mgKOH/g | 45.2 mgKOH/g | Titration |
Hydroxyl Value | 96 - 108 mgKOH/g | 101.4 mgKOH/g | Titration |
Acid Value | ≤2.0 mgKOH/g | 0.42 mgKOH/g | Titration |
Iodine Value | ≤3.0 gI₂/100g | 0.8 gI₂/100g | Titration |
Peroxide Value | ≤1.0 meq/kg | 0.2 meq/kg | Titration |
Moisture Content | ≤3.0% | 1.28% | Karl Fischer |
Safety & Impurities | |||
Heavy Metals (as Pb) | ≤10 ppm | <5 ppm | ICP-MS |
Arsenic (As) | ≤2 ppm | <0.5 ppm | ICP-MS |
Residual EO | ≤1.0 ppm | <0.5 ppm | HS-GC |
1,4-Dioxane | <1 ppm | <0.5 ppm | HS-GC-MS |
Microbiological | |||
Total Aerobic Count | ≤100 CFU/g | <10 CFU/g | Plate Count |
Yeast & Mold | ≤10 CFU/g | <10 CFU/g | Plate Count |
Final Conclusion | —— | PASSED - EXCEEDS SPECIFICATION | —— |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) & Document Request Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) & Document Request
Q1: What ratio of Tween 20 to essential oil do I need for clear solubilization?
A: The 4:1 to 10:1 rule - depends on oil polarity:
• Light esters / fragrance oils: 4:1 ratio (4 parts Tween 20 : 1 part oil)
• Medium essential oils (lavender, tea tree): 6:1 ratio
• Heavy essential oils / carrier oils: 8:1 to 10:1 ratio
CRITICAL PROCEDURE:
1. Mix Tween 20 and oil together FIRST - stir until homogeneous
2. Add water SLOWLY with good mixing
3. If cloudy, add MORE Tween 20, not more water
Common Mistake: Adding water first causes permanent cloudiness. Always solubilize oil in Tween 20 first.
Q2: Can I use Tween 60 or 80 instead of Tween 20 for clear products?
A: ABSOLUTELY NOT - this is the #1 formulator mistake:
• Tween 20: C12 short chain = fully water soluble = CRYSTAL CLEAR
• Tween 60/80: C18 long chain = partial water solubility = PERMANENT CLOUDINESS
Tween 60 and 80 will ALWAYS make your water-based products hazy, cloudy, or pearlescent. They are excellent emulsifiers for creamy products but TERRIBLE for clear products.
There is NO substitute for Tween 20 when you need water clarity.
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